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Extensions, Weaves, and Wigs: Gilding the Lily PDF E-mail
Written by Amy McKnight   
There are lots of types of extensions, weaves and wigs. Some require your hair to be straight or chemically straighten in order to look right. I will only be looking those methods and styles that work with your natural hair and do not require you to straighten or press your hair for them to work.

ImageIndividual Extension Styles

With individual extension styles loose bulk hair is braided or twisted in to create a longer or fuller braid or twist. Individual extensions styles tend to last for up to three months but it is usually better not to keep them longer than 2 ½ months. You can usually style individual extension in different ways because they lift off the scalp and can be moved like strands of hair. and you can freshen them up by redoing the first and last two rows every two to three weeks.

Types of Individual Braid Extensions

Basic Individual Braids (Box Braids)
This type of braid can be done with either synthetic bulk hair like a Kanekalon braid or with human hair. This type of braid gets its name because the base of the braid is parted in to squares. It can take from three to ten plus hours to put in individual braid. It all depends on how think your hair is and how small the braids are. Once you learn the basics of attaching the hair it is not hard to do individuals at home.

Micro Braids
This style is usually done with human hair. Your hair is braided into very small braids and the ends of the hair are left loose.  This style is best suite for hair no longer than three inches. If your hair is longer than that you will run the risk of it tangling and becoming damaged. These also can be hard to take out of natural hair. Micro braids can take up to 10 hours in a shop.

Lace Braids

These are small almost micro size braids. This style is usually done with human hair. Wet N Wavy bulk human hair seems to blend better with natural hair. For Lace Braids, anchor the braiding hair and braid about a quarter inch from the scalp. Leave a strand of the human hair out and then continue braiding down the braid to the end of your hair and then secure the end and let the rest of the braiding hair stay loose and free.

This style gives you the look of a weave with the flexibility of individuals. Since your hair is braided to the tip and none of it is left out you don’t need to straighten your hair. Depending on how thick and long your hair is this style can take from eight to twelve hours in a shop.

Tree Braids

These are similar to Lace Braids. The only difference is that you leave out a little bit of the added hair all along the length of the braid. The left out hair is similar to an upside down tree, thus the name. Done in a shop this style can take well over 12 hours to complete.

Types of Individual Twist Extensions

Senegalese Twists
This type of twist is usually done with straight synthetic hair like Kanekalon. It can be done in various sizes. Your hair can be attached at the root either by twisting it in or braiding it in a little then your hair and the synthetic hair are twisted tightly to the end. The finish twist looks like a piece of rope. Depending on how long the braids are this style can take from four to twelve hours. Once you learn how to anchor the hair this is not a hard style to do at home.

Two Strand Twist or Kinky Twists

These are like Senegalese Twist only your hair isn’t twisted quite as tight. You need to get hair specifically for kinky twist to achieve this look. There is synthetic hair that looks sort of like matted locks of hair it comes in packages like braiding hair only they are in individual locks. Then there is afro kinky bulk hair some times called cotton spiral. I have used both to twist my hair. The synthetic is much easier to take down  than cotton spiral and it is much less expensive. But the cotton spiral looks like your real hair. If your hair is really coily or prone to tangle I would go with the synthetic. Like Senegalese Twist this style can take from four to twelve hours.

Cornrow Extension Styles

With cornrow extension styles loose bulk hair is braided or twisted in to create a continuous braid that is attached to your head. Cornrows with extensions can last for up to two months but it is usually better not to keep them longer than a month to six weeks.

Once you learn the basics of cornrowing doing your hair in cornrows with extension is relatively easy.

Types of Cornrow Extensions

Fishtail Braids
Synthetic extension hair is added and the hair is braided (usually back) in a way that makes the finished braid look like a fish’s tail. You usually would only have a one or two braids like this. It shouldn’t take more than an hour or two to do this style.

Goddess Braid
Synthetic extension hair is added to your hair to make three or four really big cornrows usually going up into a bun or some type of up style. This is another quick style that doesn’t usually take more than two hours in a salon.

“Alicia Keys” Cornrows

This style was made popular by musical artist Alicia Keys it can be done in one or two layers with synthetic hair added. The hair is braided so that the scalp shows in between the cornrows. This style shouldn’t take more than three hours in a shop.

Basic Cornrows

These are done with synthetic extension hair. Your hair is braided to your scalp and there are no spaces between the braids. They can be done in one layer or in rows that fall over each other for a fuller look. These can take anywhere from three to six hours to do.

No Knot Cornrows

These are done in a way so that you cannot tell where the extension hair begins. You start by braiding your own hair and then gradually adding in extension hair to the braid for length and fullness. It can take two to three hours for these.

Weave Styles

There are literally dozens of different types of weave extensions and methods out there. But many require your hair to be straight in order to achieve the desired look. Below you will find some weave styles that work well with natural hair and don’t require you to straighten your hair.  And you will find that there are natural/afro type weaves. If you want to see some examples of natural weave styles visit the KhamitKinks website.

Weave styles can be done on natural hair either by interlocking bulk human hair into a cornrow or by sewing in weft tracks to cornrowed bases. Human hair tends to look better than synthetic but you will pay a lot more for it. You really shouldn’t leave a weave in for more than two months, three months is the max.  

Full Weave (Sewn in)

For a full weave your entire head is cornrowed down and weft hair/tracks are sewn to the cornrows. It can take from three to four hours to have your hair done in a sewn in weave.

Full Weave (Latch hooked in)

For a full weave your entire head is cornrowed down and individual strands of bulk hair or individual braids or locks are attached to the head using a latch hook. When done correctly the cornrowed section doesn’t show. It can take from three to four hours to have your hair done in a latch hook weave.

Half and Half
The general principal with a half and half is to weave the back (50% - 80%) of your hair and micro-braids, lace-braids, flat twist, or cornrows the top. If you are going for a uniform look, it is important to be sure that the hair on the track and the braiding hair are the same color, type and brand. It can take from three – six hours to have a half and half done. It all depends on what you are having done to the front.

Wigs

Wigs come in all shapes colors sizes and styles. They are one of the easiest options if you are looking for a protective style or a quick change. There are now a number of natural looking wigs and wiglets as well. These are great if you want to get some ideas of how you might look while you are transitioning or just want to give your hair a rest but still look natural.

Full Wigs
Full wigs cover the entire head so that none of your actual hair shows. There are basically three types of full wigs, those made with human hair, those made with synthetic hair, and those make with a mixture of both. Human hair wigs are the most expensive of the three but they can be styled in various ways and will behave like real hair because it is real hair. Synthetic hair is the least expensive and the easiest to maintain and there are many brands that look and act quite similar to human hair. Mix/blended wigs combine the real hair flexibility of human hair with the ease of care of synthetic.

The type of wig that you choose will depend on how long you are planning to wear the wig as well as how often. If you choose to wear a wig it is important to protect your natural hair by wearing a protective wig cap under your wig.

Wiglets, Falls, and Headband Wigs

Wiglets, falls, and headband wigs all show the front part of your hair. They are usually attached with some type of clip or in the case of the headband wig held in place with the head band. A cute way to wear them with natural hair is to cornrow or flat twist the front of your hair in a style put on the wiglet or fall and use a pretty scarf to disguise the place where the two areas meet.

The Conclusion of the Matter

You may be asking, “Why is there a section on hair extension on a natural hair care site?”  If you are you are not alone. There are some that feel that adding hair extensions to your hair is “gilding the lily” – that is to adorn unnecessarily something already beautiful or to make unnecessary additions to what is already complete.

I can understand where they are coming from. Our natural hair is beautiful and doesn’t need to be covered up by braids, weaves or wigs. We don’t have to be ashamed of our hairs texture or behavior. We are in a time were people are beginning to see that all shades of brown and textures of hair are beautiful.

Still, there are times when we want a change. Natural hair can be overwhelming when you first start learning. And during job changes, job interview, final exams, pregnancy, and life crises worrying about your hair is the last thing you want to have to do.

If you are trying to choose between changing your look or getting more “manageable hair” by resorting to chemical or changing your looks with extension, weaves, or wigs, I say go extensions all the way.

Extensions, weaves and wigs are great for a break. They can help ease the transitioning process. They can satisfy the craving for a “straight” look. They also fit the category of protective styles that help you put hair manipulation to a minimum. If you take care of your hair while you are wearing extensions, weaves and wigs, it can rest and grow.

Extensions, weaves and wigs all offer options for changing your looks or giving you a break with out resorting to putting chemical in your hair. They are temporary solutions the best solution is to learn how to take care of your hair. But when you want a break or a drastic change they are a much better choice than relaxing.

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written by lwill74, July 23, 2008
I really like this article. Very comprehensive! I've had box braids, and I've put in box braids for my sister once, which turned out great. I have also used straight ponytails and an Afro puff.
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